Ingredient Glossary: The Good, the Bad & the Ugly

Here you will find information on ingredients including preservatives, emulsifiers, detergents etc. used in facial & body care today. Our goal is to help educate & inform consumers what ingredients they may want to avoid and what ingredients they may want to look for in skin care. We will not make the decision for you and by the information we offer you can decide for yourself...what is the Good, Bad and the Ugly! Be aware!

The Good, Bad and the Ugly

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DETERGENTS

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate also called Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Or Sodium Laurel Sulfate a white powder used as a detergent, emulsifier, and surfactant which breaks down the surface tension of water. It is in most of the commercial cosmetic products, and even some in natural health stores too, shampoos, soaps, toothpaste, lotions and creams. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) is a strong, harsh degreaser that can penetrate the skin barrier. It has been known to cause roughness and flaking of the skin, as well as magnifying the skins allergic response causing redness and inflammation, drys out hair and may even damage the hair follicle which may cause the hair to thin more frequently.

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PRESERVATIVES

Parabens

The parabens, methyl paraben, ethly paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, butyl paraben, and benzyl paraben, are phenolic compounds used to preserve skin care, body care and shampoos and more. They are synthetic chemicals and are known to cause allergic reaction. They are required to preserve products for long periods of time killing a wide range of microorganisms. Found in most commercial products and even many so called all natural products.

Formaldehyde

The following ingredients may contain, release or break down into formaldehyde: 2-bromo-2nitropropane-1, 3-diol, diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidninyl urea, quaternium 15. Formaldehyde is used in nail polish, nail hardners, soap shampoos, and deodorants as a cheap and effective fungicide and preservative, but many studies have questioned safety. Studies have shown that it causes cancer and cancer causing effects especially with other ingredients in rats and damages DNA. Japan & Sweden have banned its use in cosmetics.

Disodium EDTA- used as a preservative, the material safety Data Sheet advises wearing protective clothing when handling. Irritating to the eyes, respiratory system and skin.

Phenoxyetol-used as a preservative, supplied as a liquid oily substance. It is a phenolic derivative and like the parabens is known to be toxic. European studies have showed that phenolic compounds can cause neurotoxicity in babies and children. Europeans do not allow the use of any phenolic compound for children.

Other phenolic compounds used to preserve-amyl gallate, BHA, BHT, 2,5-di-tert-butyl hydroquinone, nordhydroguaiaretic acid, butyl p-hydroxbensoate, dihydroxphenol, gallic acid, guaicol, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, all the parabens and more.

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EMULSIFYING AGENTS OR THICKNERS

Beeswax

Used to thicken and emulsify salves and creams. Beeswax is available in its natural form which is yellowish golden color or bleached. The natural form has a sweet honey like smell. Normally used in conjuction with borax emulsions.

Borax

AKA Sodium Borate which is a naturally occuring mineral mined in North and South America. Used in emulsions and as a thickner. Has documented use for hundreds of years. Can cause skin irritations. Is also used as a water softner agent and natural cleaner for clothes and getting stains out. China uses the dry powder as a natural pesticide and from their use of it has seen some harmful effects to the lungs of breathing large amounts the powder in. No known harmful effects of borax in its natural state used in cosmetics.

Carnauba Wax

A hard wax taken from the wax palm tree (Copernicia prunifera). The wax collects on the leaves and is removed by steam. No known toxity.

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INGREDIENTS USED TO RETAIN MOISTURE

*some for healing, nourishing benefits

Almond, Sweet

Sweet almond oil is a great emollient for conditioning the skin and making the skin soft. It is suited for eczema, psoriasis and itchy, dry and inflamed skin. It is rich in essential fatty acids and vitamins A, B1, B6 and E. The oil is light and penetrates easily making it a great massage oil or after bath oil. Use it in creams, lotions, lotion bars, balms, scrubs, massage oils and soaps. It saponifies easily and yields a mild soap with good lather.

Apricot Kernel

Apricot kernel oil is a light but rich oil that is high in oleic and linoleic acids. It is similar to the sweet almond oil and is readily absorbed into the skin. It is good for mature skin, sensitive skin and skin that is inflamed or dry. Apricot kernel oil makes wonderful massage oil for babies and adults and is great for use in creams, balms, lotion and soaps.

Avocado, Refined

For centuries Avocado oil has been used in African skin treatments. This highly therapeutic oil is rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B5 (Panthothenic acid), D, E, minerals, protein, lecithin and fatty acids. It is a useful, penetrating nutrient for eczema and dry skin. Avocado oil is said to have regenerating and healing qualities. Use in creams, lotions, balms, body butters, lip balms and hair oils. At a 10% dilution, use for massage oils.

Baobab

Baobab (Mbuyu in Swahili) oil is derived from the seeds of the baobab tree. This tree is native to eastern and southern Africa. For centuries it has been part of African skin care. This rich, golden oil has a slightly nutty smell. It has a high content of vitamins A, D, E and F (essential fatty acids). Baobab oil is said to provide impressive moisturizing benefits to the skin and hair. It absorbs quickly, improves elasticity, encourages regeneration of skin cells and does not clog the pores. It is an excellent ingredient in formulations for eczema and psoriasis.

Borage

Borage oil is one of the richest sources of gamma-linolenic acid, and it also contains important vitamins and minerals. It is typically used in high-end cosmetic formulations to nourish and hydrate the skin. Use borage oil in facial blends for maturing skin or in blends for damaged skin where regeneration of new skin cells is needed. Use at 10%.

Calendula

Calendula is most recognized for its ability to help wounds and abrasions. Infusing calendula petals in a carrier oil creates the oil. Calendula oil can be used to make healing salves, lotions bars and more. 10 parts of calendula oil is equal to 1-part blossoms. Recommendations for usage are 5-10% in formulations for chapped, damaged or dry skin.

Camelina

Camelina oil, also known as Gold of Pleasure, is obtained from the plant Camelina sativa. It is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. Camelina oil is high in linolenic and a-linolenic acid. It is very beneficial on the effect of the skin and gives the skin elasticity. The Camelina oil provides a protective coating for hair follicles and can be used to add to any hair care product.

Camellia

Camellia oil is very high in oleic acid. Used in Japan for centuries to condition and moisturize the skin, nails and hair. It has penetrating powers and used undiluted on the skin, nails and hair. Use it in any proportion. It is also an active ingredient in creams for hair conditioners, eye creams, dry, damaged skin, sun skin care products and scalp treatments. This is exceptional oil for soaps and toiletries and as a carrier oil for aromatherapy treatments.

Carrot

Also known as beta carotene and rich in vitamins E and A and the provitamin A which helps to heal chapped, dry and cracked skin. The oil balances the moisture in our skin and it also conditions the hair. Use it at about 2-5% for general moisturizing and use it at 5-10% in products to repair and condition the skin and hair. Carrot oil is great for the face. The oil is standardized to contain 3300 IU provitamin A per gram.

Castor

This oil is rich in fatty acids. It is so soothing and also lubricates the skin. Mostly used in hair oils, balms and other thick emulsions for the hair and skin. The castor oil acts as a humectant attracting moisture to the skin. In conjunction with other oils and as a superfatting agent, castor makes a nice, emollient bar of soap. However, it should be used at low percentages to avoid “soft” soaps. For a therapeutic treatment, apply a blend of castor oil and choose any essential oils to the body. Cover with a wet towel and follow with a heating pad. This oil will penetrate the skin carrying the essential oils with it. It is also a wonderful treatment for muscle aches and arthritis.

Coconut

It is extracted from dried coconuts and is also known as copra. The process starts with cutting and drying the coconuts until the content of the meat is minimized. Then the copra is grated and expeller pressed to remove the oil. Lastly, the oil is refined. This Coconut oil is a satisfying carrier for itchy, dry and sensitive skin. It does not clog the pores and penetrates very easily into the skin. The oil has been known to the soap industry because of its rancidity and its contribution to a good, hard soap with a fluffy lather. This light and non-greasy oil can be used in balms and stick formulations. Herbal hair infusions are often infused in coconut oil. 76 degree coconut oil is perfect for soap making and for skin care products, use the virgin coconut oil.

Grape Seed

The grape seed oil is very rich in minerals, vitamins, linoleic acid and other essential fatty acids which help preserve the natural moisture of the skin and strengthen tissue cells. This oil is a light, slightly astringent and penetrates easily for a fantastic massage. Use in creams, lip balms, lotions, soaps, eye creams and special formulations intended for damaged, dry or aging skin.

Hazelnut

Hazelnut oil is a superbly light, absorbing oil that is slightly astringent. Therefore, it makes a good oil for acne prone skin. This oil id high in essential fatty acids and is so soothing and has a healing effect to irritated, dry skin. It is known through studies that it can filter sunrays and used in sun care products. Hazelnut oil is great for massages and good for creams, hair care, soaps, lotions and much more.

Hemp Seed

The imported hemp seed oil is pressed from the finest seeds available. It has the lowest amount of saturated fatty acids and the highest amount of the polyunsaturated essential fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic acids) making it a key nutritive ingredient in anti-inflammatory skin care formulations. This special oil is said to aid in the healing of dry skin, skin lesions, joints and inflammations of the skin. Use in soaps, lip balms, lotions and formulations and combine this hemp seed oil with herbal infusions and butters to create healing salves and balms.

Jojoba, Natural

Jojoba is a liquid wax, not actually an oil. It offers the traits of both to make it a great ingredient in creams, soaps, balms, lotions and massage oils. It is highly penetrating and closely resembles our natural sebum. Use it to help balance the natural skin oils and also use it in facial blends to remove excess oils. This wax has a natural anti-inflammatory called “myristic acid”. The oil is good for rheumatism and arthritis. This natural wax has antioxidant properties and is said to help extend the shelf life of other oils. It is good to use as a superfatting agent in the cold process of soap making since it resists rancidity. Jojoba is a superb base for essential oil blends and perfume oils. It is commonly used in hair care products as a hair conditioner.

Macadamia Nut

This oil is very stable because of its mono-unsaturated nature. It is high in palmitoleic acid and an effective antioxidant. It is good for all skin types but is great for people that have dry or mature skin because of its high percentage of palmitoleic acid.

It protects the skin just like human sebum does. It absorbs and hydrates the skin quickly. It is an ideal ingredient for massage oils, lotions, creams, balms and bath oils.

Marula

This is a”to die for” oil that comes from Africa. It is one of the greatest skin care oils. This oil is rich in oleic acid and antioxidants and has a high content of palmitic acid that creates a protective coating on the surface of the skin making it the greatest oil for any dry skin sufferers. It penetrates quickly, heals the skin tissue, hydrates, reduces trans-epidermal water loss and also reduces redness. The oil increases the softness of the skin. Formulations can be used for damaged skin, dry skin and moisturizing hair treatments. Use as a stable superfatting oil for soap.

Meadowfoam

Meadowfoam plant was recognized for its outstanding oxidative stability properties. This herbaceous winter annual plant is native to the Pacific Northwest area of the United States. This is a unique plant that contains over 98% fatty acids having over 20 carbon atoms. The plant oil was developed to replace sperm whale oil in the 1970’s in a effort to protect the species. The oil remains liquid at room temperature despite its high despite its high molecular weight. It is one of the most stable lips known and is shown to lend stability to other oils. It is useful in applications using less stable oils such as kukui nut, evening primrose, sweet almond, hemp and borage. To extend the shelf life, use Meadowfoam oil in lip balms and lotion bars.

Mineral Oil

Mineral oil, petrolatum or petroleum jelly, to name a few are all by products of crude oil. They do not allow the skin to breathe, thus keeping other ingredients from penetrating the skin, causing pores to clog, irritations and skin problems to develop and even causing more dryness. Also, they do not allow the skin's ability to release toxins.

Neem

Neem oil is widely used in India and Africa as an anti-bacterial, anti-viral, antiseptic, anti-fungal and anti-parasitic agent in toiletries, soap, skin/hair products and toothpaste. It is used to treat many skin ailments such as psoriasis, ringworms, eczema, chicken pox, scabies and syphilitic sores. It is also used to get rid of lice and to control dandruff. Neem powder can be used as a foot bath powder to kill fungus and bacteria. As toothpaste it helps to relieve bleeding and swollen gums and kills the bacteria that brings on gingivitis. With anyone that has acne or skin problems mix Neem oil with clay and put on as a facial mask. Mix Neem oil to liquid soap base to make an anti-bacterial soap.

It also can be used in bug repellant lotion bars to keep the bugs away and use it in pet soaps to kill fleas and to treat to spots. It is great when emulsified with liquid soap and then sprayed on plants to rid them of insects that devour the leaves.

Olive

As most of us know, Olive oil is high in oleic acid and is a great skin cell regenerator. Use in soaps, balms, creams, herbal infusions, body butters and hair preparations. This oil is most useful as a massage for rheumatic conditions and a s a treatment for inflamed skin. Olive oil attracts external moisture to the skin and still allows normal functions of the skin to take place (sweating, releasing sebum and shedding of dead skin). When soap making, some soapers prefer Grade A olive oil to pomace because the high percentage of unsaponifiables in pomace can cause it to saponify to quickly or overreact with other ingredients such as fragrance and essential oils. The Grade A oil is also whiter than pumice. Warm it over a double boiler with dried herbs to produce herbal infusions that can be used in formulations.

Palm Kernel 106 degree

Palm kernel is similar to coconut oil. It has more of a higher percentage rate of lauric acid, which allows it to produce a hard soap that lathers well. It also gives hardness to stick formulations and balms. It has a smooth texture when making soaps and balms. More so it is used to stiffen hair pomades and other thick formulations.

Perilla Seed

This seed oil is high in Omega 3 fatty acids. Believed to suppress itchiness and chronic inflammation. It has also been known the Omega 3 fatty acids exhibit antiseptic activity and may be effective against the bacteria responsible for acne. Use the oil in massage oils, lotions, salt scrubs, creams and facial blends.

Propylene Glycol

used to retain moisture, is a form of cosmetic mineral oil found in automatic brake and hydraulic fluid. Material Safety Data Sheets warn that contact with skin can cause liver and kidney damage, convulsions, mutations and surface EEG change.

Rice Bran

The oil is rich in unsaponifiables and high in fatty acids. It also has some sunscreen properties and some anti-oxidizing properties. Use the rice bran oil in formulations where moisturizing and softening properties are needed. This oil is great for the face and for hair and baby formulations. Its also good for delicate, mature and sensitive skin.

Rosehip

This is a oil that is rich in essential vitamins, minerals and fatty acids. The rosehip oil has natural antioxidant properties and is slightly astringent. Known to help improve regeneration of the skin cells, to slow down premature aging, improves the elasticity of the skin and reduces the formations of wrinkles and scarring (prevents the formation of keloid scar tissue). Try the oil in facial blends for maturing skin or for damaged skin where the regeneration of new skin cells are needed. Use the oil at 10%.

Seabuckthorn (Berry)

This is an extraordinary plant that has been recognized for many centuries in Eurasia for its excellent nutritional and medicinal values. The seabuckthorn berries are very rich in nutrients and vitamins and has been speculated that the plant must have been cultivated by ancient plant-breeders.

The oil has general revitalizing, nourishing and restorative actions. Use it for dermatitis, acne, irritated dry and or itchy skin, skin ulcers, sore skin, eczema, burns or scalds, postpartum pigmentation, cuts and tissue regeneration. The stimulation process is helpful of tissue regeneration and in treatment of bedsores, burns and poorly healing wounds. It also reduces the damaging effects of sun radiation. This oil is effective in combating dryness, wrinkles and other symptoms of prematurely or malnourished aging skin. Utilize the oil in anti-aging skin lotions or creams. This berry is an unsurpassed natural source of vitamins E and A, flavonoids and carotenes. Seabuckthorn berries are second only to Rosehip and Acerola in vitamin C content. It is also rich in a multi-tide of other vitamins, including B1, B2, K and P and more than two dozen microelements.

Seabuckthorn berries has a restorative action partly due to its high content of essential fatty acids, tocopherols, carotenes and phytosterols, which are all important for the maintenance of healthy skin. This essential fatty acid content in the oil is 80 – 95% and major EFAs are linoleic and oleic. The others are palmitoleic, linolenic, pentadecenoic, eicosenoic, erucic, heptadecenoic, nervonic and eicosadienoic. The carotenes found in the berries are beta- and alpha –carotenes, phytofluin, zeaxanthin, lycopene, cryptoxanthin and taraxanthin. Phytosterols of seabuckthorn include beta-sitosterol, beta-amirol and erithrodiol. Tocopherols are mostly vitamin E and gamma-tocopherol. To take it internally, it can help prevent gums from bleeding, recuperate mucous membranes, urinary tract and cervical erosion, heal peptic ulcers and duodenal ulcers and last but not least, solar and cancer radiation injuries and is a source of carotenes, phytosterols, and EFAs.

Sesame

This rich oil has essential fatty acids and maintains the integrity of the skin tissue while restructuring and moisturizing the skin. The oil is heavy and should be blended with lighter oils. Sesame oil makes a nice massage oil, sun care oil and bath oil.

Shea

Shea oil is of the same as shea butter but is easier to use in certain formulations due to its lower melting point. This oil can be used in sun protection products, hair care products, baby formulations and lip care products. Use shea oil to soften shea butter for direct use.

St. John’s Wort

St. John’s Wort is so useful in creams and lotions and is made to protect and heal dry, damaged skin. It’s helpful for cuts and abrasions. Also add a little beeswax to make a salve. This is”must have” oil for pregnant belly balms. Infusing soybean oil with St. John’s Wort blossoms makes this oil.

Tamamu

Also known as Foraha oil in Africa, Tamanu is obtained by mechanically crushing the dried nuts of the Tamanu tree. This tree is typically found in the Asian and Pacific tropical regions. The oil is deep and rich in color, and it has a smell like butter pecan. The oil helps to relieve irritations such as inflammation and general rashes and it also has soothing properties on the skin. It regenerates the skin cells and has a hydrating effect on the skin. Research has shown that Tamanu is a strong anti-inflammatory, making it a very useful treatment for eczema, rheumatism and inflammatory skin. It’s also been used to heal wounds and cuts while acting as a germicide to prevent infection. Tamanu oil can be healing in lip balms and lotion bars at 5%. Use the oil undiluted as a treatment for psoriasis, eczema, wounds and cuts or in lotions and creams for general treatment.

Virgin Coconut

Virgin coconut oil differs from regular refined, bleached and deodorized coconut oil. It is extracted from freshly cut coconuts, not dried copra and it has not been subjected to high temperatures, refinement procedures and solvents. The various virgin coconut oils available on the market may differ amid the exact method of extraction, however, only an oil that starts with freshly harvested, healthy coconuts and ends with the least amount of moisture possible, will result in a high quality virgin coconut oil. There is no set standard yet for producing virgin coconut oil so it can be tricky for the consumer when purchasing it. Look out when purchasing the oil and if the product looks cloudy when completely liquid and also oils that smell like rancid coconuts or smell of burnt rubber.

Vitamin E, Natural

Available in three potencies: 250IU/g, 1000IU/g and 1400IU/g

Vitamin E is known as an essential fat-soluble vitamin composed of 8 naturally occurring compounds. There are four substances called tocotrienols and the fractions are called alpha, beta, delta, epsilon, eta, gamma, and zeta tocopherol. Each of these different compounds exhibits different biological activities, but d-alpha tocopherol has the highest biological activity and is the most widely available form of vitamin E in food.

The effectiveness of this product is responsible for the alpha tocopherol activity and the potency of vitamin E oil is measured by its alpha tocopherol content. It is very important to know the IU of the vitamin E. A 200IU/g vitamin E contains 200 units of alpha tocopherol per gram of oil and so the rest of it is comprised of unspecified amounts of beta, delta, epsilon and other components.

The alpha tocopherol can be isolated from the other components, but studies have shown that it is more stable and has a longer shelf life when it is in it’s original family structure with it’s non-alpha tocopherols unless it is transformed into tocopheryl. The full activity of the other fractions is still unknown, and so some manufacturers of vitamin E prefer to preserve the natural form.

Vitamin E is well known for its biological function related to its antioxidant properties. To take internally, vitamin E is the most effective antioxidant in the biological membrane. Its protective nature has cellular structures that guards against damage from free radicals and the byproducts of fat peroxidation. Vitamin E acts as a free radical scavenger to prevent the byproducts of chemical-cell interaction to cause cell damage. It may decrease the toxicity of certain chemotherapy drugs.

To use topically, vitamin E may decrease some of the harmful effects of solar radiation on the skin. Noted for common uses in lotions or creams for burn treatment and is useful to treat burns secondary to radiation therapy. Combine with emu oil for a burn treatment. Another use is for pregnant women to prevent stretch marks on the abdomen and breasts. Here recently it has been used to prevent or treat mucositis resulting from chemotherapy. Vitamin E can help promote wound healing, heal acne and prevent scarring from psoriasis or eczema. The oil moisturizes the skin from within and reduces UV induced damage, decreases erythema (redness of the skin) after sun exposure and protects against ozone damage. Very appropriate for use in lip balms and sun care products.

Watermelon Seed

Also known as ootanga or kalahari oil, watermelon seed is light, penetrating, emollient oil. It has 9 essential fatty acids and is rich in omega 6. This oil absorbs into the skin readily and dissolves sebum buildup allowing the sebum to wash away and also balances the moisture in the skin. It is commonly used in hair care products and cosmetics for its non-greasy feel and moisturizing properties. Watermelon seed oil restores the elasticity in mature skin. It can be used for carrier oil in aromatherapy or as natural baby oil. Use it in bath oils, face creams, hair oils, salt scrubs, massage oils and bath bombs.

Wheat germ

Wheat germ oil is rich in vitamins A, D and more importantly, E, which is nourishing to the skin. It is often used sparingly to prolong the shelf life of massage oils and will discourage oxidation within the unsaponifiables in soap. The oil prevents moisture loss from the skin, and it soothes sunburned, irritated or burned skin. Use it to make great massage oil and to make bar soap use 10% wheat germ oil.

Emu Oil

Emu oil is rapidly gaining attention and recognition as an invaluable cosmetic ingredient. Some current studies attribute very promising benefits. Reports show that it has an extraordinary ability to penetrate the skin and emu oil seems to act as a carrier for carrying other ingredients. It is completely non-irritating and is non-comedogenic. Suggests show that the oil can reduce redness and inflammation to the skin, reduce the formation of wrinkles and restore moisture to dry, irritated skin. Another benefit that has been said that it reduces inflammation and pain of sore muscles and joints. Therefore, it may be helpful in conditions of arthritis. Recommendations show that it can be used in healing burns and preventing the formation of scars tissue while encouraging rapid repair of damaged tissue. This oil is a “must have” for the medicine cabinet. Blend emu oil , water and lavender essential oil in a spray bottle seems to rapidly heal burns, wounds, stitches and hot spots in dogs. When making a bar soap use emu oil at 10-20%. The oil will make a hard bar with stable, moisturizing lather. Use it in essential oil blends to deliver the oils into the skin. Another use is in massage or sports blends to help relieve inflammation and soreness. At 65 degrees, emu oil becomes creamy looking and will solidify if kept colder. If the oil is to be stored longer than 3 months it should be refrigerated. The oil has endless uses and benefits. Studies suggest that the emu oil is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, stimulates the skin, hair and nail growth, encourages healing, has a natural SPF, penetrates multiple layers of the skin, is a natural emollient and moisturizer, non-comedogenic, prevents and diminishes scarring/stretch marks, hypo-allergenic and much more. It could possibly prove to be a great oil to use for allergies and skin disorders.

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VEGETABLE BUTTERS

Cocoa, Pure

This is a pure, crushed cocoa butter. It has the most beautiful, rich aroma of dark chocolate. This is an emollient that has been used in Africa for centuries as a skin care product. Use cocoa butter to heal and moisturize the skin that has been exposed to the elements. Also great for stretch marks during pregnancy and weight loss, this keeps the skin supple. It is a fantastic ingredient in lip balms, lotion bars, soaps, body butters, belly balms for those expectant mothers to be and for those that have lost weight. The butter can be jarred and sold “as is”. Another method is trying melting cocoa butter into little foil cups to make chocolaty butter bath melts.

Illipe

The illipe bitter is gathered from the nuts of the Shorea stenoptera, a tropical tree. The butter is similar to the Cocoa butter, but it has a higher melting point. This illipe butter with its high melting point makes a good ingredient for making hard bars of soap. It restores elasticity and moisturizes the skin. Use in massage creams, soaps and sun care products and it also lends rigidity to stick formulas, soaps and balms.

Kokum

Kokum butter comes from the Indian tree, Garcinia indica. Used in skin care products, it has the ability to soften the skin, and also heals hands and soles of the feet and ulcerations and fissures of the lips. It helps reduce the degeneration of the skin and improves elasticity. Kokum butter can be used in belly balms, foot care products, balms, soaps and some other emollient skin treatments.

Mango

Mango butter comes from the kernels of the mango tree. This butter has a high content of stearic acid, which is similar to the cocoa butter. Mango butter prevents drying of the skin and helps to smooth out the formation of wrinkles and also it is emollient and protects the skin from the sun. It helps reduce the degeneration of skin cells and restores elasticity. Mango butter’s hardness makes it a great butter for lip balm, lotion bars and stick formulations and it can be used “as is” to provide relief from the dryness of psoriasis and eczema.

Shea

For thousand of years, African healers have used the Shea butter for the treatment of aging or dry skin. It has a high content of non-saponifiable fatty acids, which gives it the ability to moisturize and retain the elasticity of the skin. The butter helps in protecting the skin from exposure to the sun and repairs cellular degeneration. It can be used “as is” or in any proportion in formulations for moisturizing the hair or skin.

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ESSENTIAL OILS

Bergamot

Bergamot has a light, lovely, fresh floral citrus scent that rejuvenates the senses. It can alleviate fatigue due to stress. Bergamot combats colic, restores appetite, reduces fever, strengthens the immune system and gives a calming effect. It can be used in helping relieve skin irritations and in the treatment of eczema, acne, ulcers, herpes, psoriasis and wounds. It can help balance oily skin and also repels insects. Use the Bergamot carefully in skin preparations because citrus oils are known photosensitizers. Blends nicely with cypress, juniper, neroli, rose, geranium, ylang ylang and other florals.

TIP: As said previously, Bergamot is a strong photosensitizer. Do not use on the skin within 4 hours of exposure to the sun. Avoid during pregnancy. Not for use on babies or young children.

Carrot Seed

The carrot seed oil has a woody and earthy aroma. It is used primarily for its healing properties on the skin. It is very stimulating in regards to the circulation and repairs and tones the skin. It shows increased elasticity and reduces the formation of wrinkles and scars. The oil is a great addition for face creams for women over 30 and is useful for balancing oily and dry skin.

Cedarwood

Cedarwood blends nicely with other woody oils like sandalwood and vetiver, floral oils such as citrus oils, eucalyptus, chamomile oils, basil, jasmine and neroli. Avery nice addition blend for men. Use to treat oily skin, scalp problems and respiratory congestion and to lift the spirits. Cedarwood is a strong antiseptic, astringent and a bug repellant. It is soothing when used in a sauna or steam shower and can be used as a scent fixative in perfumes and soaps.

TIP: Not to use during pregnancy or on babies.

Cinnamon Leaf

Cinnamon leaf oil is a warm, spicy, highly aromatic oil. It is wonderful for purifying and cleansing the air by killing germs and bacteria. The oil helps to relieve nausea, strengthen the immune system and to reduce high blood pressure.

TIP: Do not use on the skin UNDILUTED.

Clary Sage

This sage is earthy, yet a herbaceous oil with a hint of floral scent. Clary sage balances and calms the spirit and is considered to be a sedating oil. This tranquil sage reduces stress and especially balances female hormones, and can be used to treat menstrual cramps, menopause, postnatal depression, PMS and irregular cycles. It is a great combination with geranium, lavender, orange, ylang ylang, sandlewood, jasmine, rose, bergamot, chamomile and rosewood.

TIP: Avoid use when drinking or driving and do not use when pregnant.

Clove Bud

This oil is a spicy, warm and very aromatic. It’s wonderful for toothaches and abscesses when applied on the tooth very, very carefully. Clove bud stimulates the mind, improves concentration and acts as an aphrodisiac. Clove oil is great for any home fragrance products and blends well with orange, vetiver, lavender, ylang ylang, vanilla, bergamot and other florals. Known to be a “hot spice” that can burn when used undiluted on the skin and is also irritating to the mucous membranes. To dilute, use less than 75%.

TIP: Avoid during pregnancy and do not use on babies or young children. Extreme caution should be taken when using on the skin.

Coriander

Coriander oil is a sweet, warm spicy oil and has a pleasant and unique aroma. This oil has anti-bacterial properties and is a good oil to diffuse during the cold months. Blends well with spice oils, citruses and some florals and lends an interesting feature to fragrance blends. Great when used in muscle rubs.

Cypress

This evergreen oil is safe to use as an inhalant or to use in a massage blend. Cypress is astringent and is good for oily skin. It also relieves stress and is emotionally comforting. Other physical attributes are increased concentration, assists with varicose veins and general circulation, helpful for hay fever, asthma, coughs and bronchitis, is detoxifying when used in a bath and is a good diuretic. Cypress is very soothing when used in a sauna or a steam shower. So good when blended with woody oils or florals and is so wonderful in any home fragrance products or in masculine blends.

Dill Seed

Dill seed is another warm, spicy oil used to aid in digestion and to relieve colic and flatulence. It can stimulate lactation in nursing mothers and promote a sluggish menstrual cycle. This oil is a “sure thing” in the medicine cabinet. It relaxes and promotes sleep and repels insects. This mild and spicy aromatic oil is similar to caraway and blends nicely with neroli, citrus oils and mint oils.

Elemi

Elemi has the ability to treat respiratory problems and stimulate the immune system. It can be diffused during the cold months and can be blended with such oils as lemon myrtle or eucalyptus to ward off illness. It is best to use as a diffuser since it can cause skin irritation.

Eucalyptus Globulus

Eucalyptus oil is best known for the relief of congestion and its respiratory effects. The oil is highly anti-microbial and is great to use during the winter season. To help keep the colds away, use it in a diffuser. Eucalyptus globules rouses and stimulates the circulation, increases concentration, warms the body and very useful in relieving pains and rheumatic aches. To relieve congestion, use it in a sauna or a steam shower. Dab a little on a cotton swab to help stop irritating bug bites and also the oil is useful as an insect repellant and to treat for athlete’s foot or lice.

Fennel, Sweet

Sweet fennel has a licorice-like aroma. It is best known for it’s service as a digestive aid and is useful in relieving gas and indigestion. Nursing mothers will be pleased to know that sweet fennel can increase milk flow and production. Use it in PMS blends and it also helps to alleviate painful breasts during menstrual cycles. It reduces stress, has a mild sedative effect yet is also uplifting. Fennel is a good diuretic and is a cleansing oil and can be used in baths for detoxification. Fennel is a bit overpowering, so it is best to use sparingly with other oils such as sandalwood, bergamot, lavender, basil, cypress, lemon and rose.

TIP: Please do not use during pregnancy or on babies or small children. People who suffer from epilepsy should not use it.

Fir, Balsam

This oil has a Christmas tree scent that is warm, calming and has an uplifting effect. Mostly used to treat arthritis and bronchial congestion/infection. Balsam fir is so soothing when used in a steam shower or sauna. Fir mingles nicely with many oils, which includes florals, mints, spices and citruses.

Frankincense

As most of us all know frankincense has been around for centuries and this ancient oil is used in spiritual practices and meditation. It calms the spirit and mind. Frankincense can be used as an expectorant and can help to relieve asthma sufferers and other bronchial congestive problems. This wonderful oil is woody, slightly spicy and balsamic. It mixes well with a number of oils including spice, citrus and woody oils.

Geranium, Rose (Bourbon)

Bourbon oil is considered to be the best and finest grade of rose geranium oil. This beautiful rose geranium originated from Madagascar. Use for facial applications or for special treatments for fertility. Used to balance the hormones in women. It is so useful when added to lotions, creams, bath salts, bath oils, facials and more. Mix this lovely oil with clary sage, bergamot, bay, orange, sandalwood, lavender, rose, lemon, chamomile and other oils.

German Chamomile

German chamomile has a high content of azulene, in which the azulene gives it a very deep blue color. The azulene has a effective anti-inflammatory agent making this oil of choice for skin inflammation, dry or itchy skin, infections, insect bites, acne and other irritations.

Ginger

Ginger is frequently used as a natural remedy. It has a strong, warm, spicy aroma. The oil is relaxing yet can be stimulating. It is effective in relieving indigestion, nausea, alleviates stiffness and soreness in muscles, and also strengthens the immune system plus increases circulation especially during the winter months. Speaking of the winter months, it is nice to add to bath soaks and muscle rubs. Mix ginger oil with sandalwood, cedarwood, palmarosa, frankincense and citrus oils.

TIP: Ginger oil is very strong, so it must be diluted significantly before using on skin or in the bath. Use with caution during pregnancy.

Grapefruit, Pink

A lot of us know that pink grapefruit helps to reduce cellulite. Mix some grapefruit oil to make a great body wrap. This aids in cellulite mobilization and elimination. Pink grapefruit has a nice, fresh, clean, uplifting aroma. It also treats mood swings, depression, stress and anger. Grapefruit oil triggers the lymphatic system, acts as a diuretic, detoxifies the liver, is a good astringent for balancing oily skin and hair and is useful as a toner.

TIP: Photosensitizer….Do not use within 4 hours of exposure to the sun.

Helichrysum

Helichrysum oil has the strongest anti-inflammatory properties of all the essential oils. It is also known as Immortelle or Everlasting, and is sweet, warm, and a woody oil. It works extremely well in massage blends for muscle aches and rheumatism. Highly anti-bacterial and anti-fungal, this oil makes it good for anti-acne blends. Add helichrysum to a mixture of emu or carrot oil to treat scars. People that have had mental past traumas, helichrysum have properties that promote an uplifting emotional healing that calms and soothes the spirit.

Jasmine

Jasmine is a rich, beautiful, floral aroma that is most irresistible. Jasmine can be used to treat insomnia, nervous tension, depression and infertility. The aroma brings on a restful state to those that have emotional trauma. Also it is said it act’s as an aphrodisiac. For a sensual formulation, dilute the jasmine in jojoba.

Juniper Berry

This oil has a woody, warm peppery, pine smell that is so strengthening and uplifting. It has been used by the Native Americans to purify the air. A favorable antiseptic that can be diffused during illness. This berry oil can be used as an astringent for the hair and skin and also in anti-cellulite massage blends. Great for body wraps and anti-cellulite salt soaks.

TIP: Avoid during pregnancy.

Lemon Myrtle

Lemon myrtle has a wonderful lemon scent. Used in a diffuser, lemon myrtle will reduce the spread of germs in the air and that is why it is highly anti-bacterial and germicidal. This is a “sure thing” in the medicine cabinet. Just a few drops of the lemon in water make a nice disinfectant for either sinks or countertops. Lemon myrtle is about 95% citral so it has a clear lemon scent. It could be a skin irritant since it has high citral content so it is best to dilute well when using it for an oily skin blend. Best to use in a diffuser.

TIP: Extreme care when using on the skin.

Lemon

This lemon oil smells just like a fresh cut lemon. Lemon oil has a strong germicidal disinfectant property. It blends well with many other oils and it makes a wonderful air purifier. It has such a clean, fresh scent that if smokers are present, diffusing the lemon oil will help rid the air of second-hand smoke. Lemon is astringent, so it is good for oily skin or hair. It is helpful with asthma, bronchial problems and concentration.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass has a refreshing, stimulating effectiveness on many ways to alleviate some mental and physical problems. Lemongrass relieves fatigue, increases concentration and alertness, aids in digestion, relieves aching muscles, soothes gastric infections and acts as an insect repellant. To treat acne and oily skin, use on the skin in highly diluted form. It is an astringent that helps to aid in healing the acne and to subside oily skin. It also acts as a good skin toner, but it must be well diluted and used with care. Mix lemongrass with geranium, rosemary, tea tree, cedarwood, citronella, bergamot, palmarosa and other oils.

TIP: Use with caution on the skin and do not use near mucous membranes.

Lime

Lime has all the same therapeutic and blending properties of lemon and has the scent of a freshly sliced lime. Lime can be used in much the same way so that it blends well with citruses, lavender, florals and lavender. For a manly aftershave, try a blend of bay.

TIP: Strong photosensitizer. Do not use within 4 hours of exposure to the sun.

Mandarin

This sweet citrus oil gives a sense of well-being and promotes calmness. It is so gentle that it helps to relax children before sleep, is great for hyperactive children and for periods of insomnia. Mandarin acts as a diuretic and helps to reduce cellulite. This beautiful oil is a good skin toner for oily skin and also is an antiseptic. This superb oil is good for many blends.

TIP: Strong photosensitizer. Do not use within 4 hours of exposure to the sun.

Marjoram, Sweet

This oil has a spicy, warm scent that mixes nicely with lavender, clary sage, citrus, rosewood and many other oils. Sweet marjoram helps in relieving muscle aches, migraines, headaches, stiffness, blood pressure, cramps, promotes menstrual flow and eases emotional suffering. Marjoram is also a strong sedative.

TIP: Do not use during pregnancy. Due to its sedating properties, avoid drinking and driving.

Myrrh

Myrrh is rich, has a warm earthy, woody and balsamic aroma. Known for its powerful antiseptic and astringent it can be used to heal infected wounds. It helps strengthen the immune system, has a beneficial effect on the digestive system, clears mucous from the lungs, useful for chronic bronchitis, helps with weeping eczema and gum disease and makes a wonderful mouth wash. Combines well with frankincense, sandalwood, citrus, lavender and sage oils.

TIP: Do not use during pregnancy.

Neroli

Neroli oil comes from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree that is distilled to make this distinct oil. The tree originates from Spain and has a wonderful floral citrus fragrance. It has a balancing effect for oily skin and hair, lifts the spirits, relieves depression, calms anxiety and helps control overproduction of sebum when diluted with jojoba. Neroli oil is one of the best oils for the face as it helps regenerate skin cells. It is also a great skin toner. Blends well with geranium, bergamot, rose and some conifer oils.

Nutmeg

This is wonderful, warm, spicy, stimulating oil that is also great for holiday potpourris. For a massage blend, this oil has anti-inflammatory effects that can melt the pain away from rheumatism and arthritis. Citrus, ylang ylang, vanilla, geranium and other oils blend very well with nutmeg.

TIP: Avoid using during pregnancy. Use with caution, and dilute significantly before using on the skin. Excessive use can cause nausea and tachycardia.

Orange, Sweet

Orange has many positive properties which include an aid to digestion problems, nausea, flatulence, helps with colic in babies, reduces fever and headaches and relieves anxiety and stress. Sweet orange has the scent of a freshly peeled orange that lifts the spirit. Orange is grease deterrent and recently has become popular in many cleaning products. It combines so nicely with many other oils and is great in potpourri and home fragrance products.

TIP: Strong photosensitizer. Do not use within 4 hours of exposure to the sun.

Patchouli

For year’s patchouli has been known for its mellow, warm, earthy scent that was very popular in the 1960’s, 70’s and to this day still being used. Some of the patchouli’s remedies starts with treating acne, eczema, psoriasis, sores, burns, tightens the pores of the skin, combats wrinkles, is an anti-inflammatory and anti-depressant, reduces stress, regulates oily skin and dandruff, mobilizes cellulite for elimination and is s good oil for bath and skin care. Used in a diffuser, patchouli breaks up the mucous and reduces fever. It blends well with rose, geranium, cedarwood, sandalwood and other florals. Used in small quantities it has a sedative effect.

Peppermint

Peppermint oil has many properties in relieving headaches, indigestion, nausea, mental fatigue, itchiness and helps to stay awake when necessary. Peppermint can be used as a lotion to sooth achy tired feet, treats athletes foot, fungal problems, and to use as a foot scrub. It also repels insects. This oil is so good for any bath products. Peppermint blends with juniper, orange, lavender, geranium, rosemary and insect repellent oils.

TIP: Do not use on babies or toddlers.

Petitgrain

Petitgrain originated from France and has been used throughout the history for its fresh, light, floral citrus scent. This oil has an uplifting and calming effect that helps with depression, stress, relieves anxiety and relaxes the mind. It acts as a mild sedative. It mixes well with so many other oils, but also try it with ylang ylang, clary sage, rosewood and sandalwood.

Pine Needle

This is a great holiday oil, but it also is good for any other time of the year. Blend any other oils to the pine needle oil to make a wonderful aroma. The scent makes anyone think that they are walking through a pine forest. Just add a few drops of pine oil to a quart of water to help disinfect any household surfaces or add to any existing household cleaners. This gives it extra disinfecting power. Pine needle acts as an expectorant to calm the respiratory passages and loosens congestion. Use in a diffuser or a steam shower to aid the body and clear the air.

Roman Chamomile

This oil is one of the main essential oils that can comfort and sedate a restless person, and to help relieve inflamed, irritated skin conditions. Roman chamomile settles the nerves, washes away stress and tension, is great for insomnia, relaxes muscles and relieves aches and pains. It has anti-inflammatory characteristics that are good for headaches, arthritis, inflamed joints and menstrual cramps. This wonderful oil is good for calming colicky babies when used in a tummy rub.

TIP: Due to its sedating properties, do not use when drinking or driving.

Rose Otto

Rose otto is a lovely intoxicating, floral scent. It is known for balancing female hormones, relaxes the mind and also has a comforting effect. Commonly used in anti-depression blends and blends for irregular menstrual cycles and menopause. Use in blends for the face as it helps with maturing, dry skin and wrinkles. Warm the bottle to liquefy, since the oil becomes semi-solid at cooler temperatures.

Rosemary

This oil is sweet, herbaceous and has a slight camphor aroma. Rosemary is a stimulate, and should be used with caution. It helps to increase circulation and relieves the pain in joints. It is also helpful in controlling acne, dandruff, oily scalp and skin. It is said to promote hair growth.

TIP: Avoid during pregnancy, have high blood pressure or have seizures.

Rosewood

Rosewood is slightly sweet, has a beautiful floral aroma that it is to good to ignore. It has a balancing effect on hormones, quiets the mind, works as an anti-depressant and balances different types of skin combinations. This oil mixes well with sandalwood, bergamot, florals, clary sage, citrus oils and many other oils.

Sandalwood

Sandalwood has a rich, heavy, and beautiful sensual scent. It helps in meditation to balance the mind and spirit, acts as an aphrodisiac, and calms the nervous system. For anyone that has oily skin, this oil has an astringent effect and it also helps to soothe irritated skin. Sandalwood is good for facial blends since it helps in balancing the skin. It mixes well with patchouli, vetiver, clove, florals, bergamot, and orange oils. This is a favorite for anyone that likes to wear perfume.

Spearmint

Spearmint is invigorating, and the oil is slightly milder and sweeter than peppermint. This oil also calms and relaxes when used sparingly. It increases alertness, lifts the spirit and opens up the respiratory passages. Spearmint is great when used in facial blends and soaps. It is more appropriate for children than peppermint and is good for nausea, upset tummies and fever. Spearmint blends with orange, sandalwood, lavender, bergamot and jasmine.

Tangerine

Tangerine is sweet, a calm-inducing citrus oil that is most wonderful for lifting the spirits and relaxes the nerves after a nerve racking day. It reduces hyperactivity and the “jitters”. It helps put life back into order and puts a smile on the face. This wonderful oil is good for babies and children. Tangerine oil blends well with many, many other oils.

Tea Tree

Tea tree oil is being used in aromatherapy and by far is gaining recognition for its anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and anti-viral properties. Recent studies have suggested that it works best when well diluted. It can be diffused or used neat. In skin care formulations; it is a popular addition for germ killing properties. During the winter months, diffuse it to keep germs from spreading. Use in masks and toners to treat acne. To fight cold sores, use it in lip balms and in mouthwashes to treat oral diseases. Tea tree heals wounds quickly and keeps infections from setting in when used in a balm. It blends very well with spikenard, vetiver, eucalyptus, sandalwood, lavender, niaouli and peppermint.

TIP: When using this oil neat it can cause skin irritation despite the many recommendations for using the oil without dilution.

Vanilla

Vanilla is well known for its sweet and fascinating aroma. It brings on a comforting effect and puts stress in the back seat. It can be used for so many ways, such as, a room fragrance, drawer sachet and in the diffuser. Combine it with citrus oils, spice oils and some florals.

TIP: Warm the bottle under warm water since vanilla will crystallize when cold.

Vetiver

Vetiver has a smoky, resin-like smell but it also has a sweet and subtle aroma too. It is amber colored and is a thick essential oil. For anyone that likes to relax, this is one that is a “must have” for any relaxing blends and many oils. Vetiver oil has a grounding effect and also relaxes and balances the soul. This oil is one for the book!!! This oil is addictive!

Ylang Ylang

Ylang ylang is very irresistible. It has a jasmine-like scent with a sweet, floral aroma. Often it is used to treat as an anti-depressant and balance the spirit. Use to also treat impotence and frigidity in men. Ylang ylang is considered to be an aphrodisiac. Some of the other aids that are helpful are hormonal balancing, menopause symptoms and PMS. In cases of infertility caused by amenorrhoea, it could help bring on periods. Used in a facial toner it can help balance oily skin. Used in a compress, this can help lower fevers. This oil mixes well with rosewood, vetiver, mandarin, clary sage, bergamot, sandalwood, orange along with many other oils to make a truly exotic blend.

TIP: Excessive use may bring on headaches in some individuals.

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HYDROSOLS

The term for hydrosol is derived from the Latin words hydro and sol, meaning, “water solution”. When plant material is steamed distilled, such as the barks, roots, leaves, flowers, seeds and stems, it is obtained as an essential oil and certain chemical constituents of the plant first build up in the water. When they reach their maximum solubility in water, they start to collect in a separate layer on the surface of the water (the essential oil) so then many of the water- soluble plant compounds and some of the oil- soluble compounds wind up in the distillation water.

Hydrosol is the pure, distillate water that remains after essential oils are steam distilled from the original plant materials. Hydrosols are most of the time clear and have the consistency and appearance of water. Their aroma is usually, but not always, similar to that of the essential oil, but the aroma is usually much more subtle. Hydrosols include very small amounts of the essential oil and also include water-soluble ingredients of the plant material that may not be present in the essential oil. Also some hydrosols, such as Yarrow, have a odor that is unpleasant, making them more difficult to use.

Hydrosols are gaining recognition in aromatherapy because they offer an opportunity to use a well-diluted potency of specific plant’s essential oil for therapeutic reasons. Essential oils have highly concentrated compounds that may often be to strong for the human body, in which it may be rejected or effective. On the other hand, hydrosols are well-diluted water-soluble compounds, which are easily assimilated and absorbed by the body. Hydrosols are usually safer for use in individuals with depressed immune systems and safer in babies.

Another word that hydrosols are known by is hydrolates. Hydrosols sometimes are incorrectly referred to as floral waters. Floral water are mostly aromatic waters made with the use of fragrance oils, but they do not include the natural therapeutic properties that hydrosols contain. Therefore solubilizing essential oils in water cannot make hydrosols.

Pure hydrosols do not have the strong anti-bacterial properties that essential oils have, to which they are subject to rapid degradation. Contamination may occur if the hydrosol has been collected over a long period of time. Further, subsequent handing and storage conditions may reduce the shelf life. To keep the shelf life active, it is best to use 6 months to 2 years and keep in a cool environment. When it comes time to use, keep it in sterile conditions and promptly sealed. It is said that the dangers of using a hydrosol harboring bacterial colonies far outweigh the negative effects of adding food grade ethyl alcohol to the hydrosols to preserve the shelf life. European hydrosols are preserved with ethyl alcohol as required by the law. Witch hazel hydrosol is preserved with Germaben and is not suitable for internal use.

Hydrosols can be used in creams, toners, room sprays, body sprays and in place of water in most formulations. They will impart both therapeutic and fragrance benefits to most products. Hydrosols are wonderful when used as wetting agents in clay facials. Most hydrosols do not have a very long shelf life. They need to be stored in a cool place away from heat and sunlight. Some manufactures add a preservative like alcohol to preserve them longer.